Polki, Kundan, Thewa, Meenakari, Moissanite, AD — and why your massi, khala and fupi has strong opinions on Indian jewelry.
Let's be real. At some point you've been standing in a jewelry store or scrolling Instagram reels at 1am. Someone says "this is a Kundan set with real Polki, Jadau setting, and Meenakari on the reverse." You nodded like you understood every word.
We see you. No judgment. We've all been there.
South Asian jewelry has one of the richest, most technically layered material traditions in the entire world. The Mughals literally changed global jewelry history from a court in Rajasthan. The enamel on the back of your jhumkas traveled from ancient Persia via a 16th-century cultural exchange. The "AD stones" your aunty calls fake diamonds have a surprisingly fascinating origin story. Thewa, a jewelry form you may not know, uses 23K gold fused directly onto colored glass. One family developed this secret technique and preserved it for 300 years.
This is not dry information. This is your heritage. And it slaps.
So here is your no-jargon, no-gatekeeping, actually-interesting guide. It explains what everything is, where it came from, and how to choose.
First: A Quick Vocabulary Lesson on Indian Jewelry Materials That Will Save Your Life
Because these terms get thrown around interchangeably and they absolutely should not:
- Polki = an uncut diamond in its natural, unpolished form. It's a stone. Flat on one side, slightly domed on the other, completely raw.
- Kundan = two things depending on who's talking. As a technique, it means setting stones in a framework of pure gold foil. As a stone, it can mean highly polished glass used to simulate precious gems. Context matters.
- Jadau = the method of setting stones without solder or adhesive, using lac resin and gold foil. Jadau is not a stone, it's a technique. Polki is traditionally set using Jadau.
- Meenakari = enamel work applied to metal, usually on the reverse of Kundan jewelry. Persian in origin. Breathtakingly beautiful.
- Thewa = 23K gold fused directly onto colored glass. A completely distinct art form from Rajasthan with its own 300-year history. Not Kundan. Not Polki. Something else entirely.
- AD / American Diamond = cubic zirconia (CZ). A lab-created stone. Not a diamond, not zircon, not moissanite. Its own thing.
Quick Reference: What's What Chart
Every South Asian jewery material, decoded - from Mughal courts to your next function.
Polki: The OG. The Uncut Diamond. The Mughal Court Flex.
What is it?
Polki is a diamond in its most natural form: uncut, unpolished, unfaceted. No grinding. No precision cutting. No facets engineered to maximize brilliance. Just a raw diamond, flat on one side and slightly domed on the other. It is set almost exactly as it came out of the earth.
And that is the entire point.
Gold artisans from Bikaner first introduced diamonds in their pure form to gold jewelry, calling it Polki jewelry. The art then spread from the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat to the royal courts of Delhi. The Mughal dynasty's karigaars refined it further, adding intricate designs and alluring enamel work. Every Mughal emperor, from Babur to Bahadur Shah Zafar, wore Polki: turban ornaments, armcuffs, necklaces, bajubandhs.
The cut is an ancient one, believed to have been developed 3,000 years ago. Instead of relying on cleaving or sawing to shape the jewel, Polki diamonds achieve their shape through polish alone. Western diamond cutting maximizes brilliance through facets. Polki stays close to the stone's original form. The Mughal philosophy was simple. You don't improve on nature. You celebrate it.
What Polki actually looks like
Forget the blinding white sparkle of a modern-cut diamond. Polki's most distinguishing characteristic is its rough, uncut appearance. The surfaces feature natural imperfections and irregularities that add to their organic allure. The light they reflect gives off a softer, warmer, almost cloudy sheen, like moonlight rather than a spotlight. Each stone is genuinely unique. No two Polkis are the same shape, the same size, or the same character.
That is not a flaw. That is the entire point.
The Jadau connection
Polki is almost always set using the Jadau technique, one of the oldest jewelry-making methods in existence. The Jadau technique involves embedding precious and semi-precious gemstones into a base made of gold without solder or heat. Instead, artisans use lac (a natural tree resin) and 24K gold foil to seat each stone individually. The gold foil also serves as a reflective backing, since uncut diamonds have no facets to bounce light.
Polki, Kundan, Jadau: the hierarchy explained
Here is the thing that confuses everyone. Polki is a stone. Jadau is how it's set. Kundan can be a stone, a highly polished glass used as a Polki substitute. It is also called billor or synthetic Polki. Kundan can also mean a setting style, the technique of pressing gold foil around stones. The terms are genuinely layered. You now officially know more than 95% of people at any shaadi.
The history you'll want to drop at dinner
Until 1896, when diamonds were discovered in South Africa, India was the world's primary source of mined diamonds. Every diamond in every crown jewel of every European monarchy before that date came through India. The Koh-i-Noor did. The Hope Diamond, originally the Tavernier Blue, was purchased in India. The Orlov Diamond is a 189.62-carat Mughal-cut jewel. It retains its original Mughal cut to this day. The Koh-i-Noor was recut by Queen Victoria. The British took the stone and reshaped it to match their standards. The Orlov stayed exactly as Indian hands made it.
That context changes how you see Polki jewelry. This is not a historical curiosity. This is the original form of diamond jewelry, predating every cutting technique that exists today.
What to know before buying real Polki
Real Polki with natural diamonds starts at $1,000+ and goes into the tens of thousands for bridal sets. Authentic Polki has genuine resale and buyback value. This is an investment, not just an accessory.
The caveat: a lot of jewelry marketed as "Polki" is actually high-quality glass in a similar setting. Real Polki has a natural, uneven sparkle unlike the uniform shine of glass imitations. It also feels heavier and comes with certifications from reputed jewellers. Always ask for documentation.
And if you want the Polki aesthetic without the real-diamond price tag? That's exactly what the next section is for.
Moissanite Polki: The Space Mineral Has Entered the Chat
What is it?
Moissanite Polki is modern, accessible, and honestly kind of genius. It uses lab-created moissanite stones cut to mimic the irregular, antique appearance of raw Polki diamonds. They are then set using the same Jadau-inspired technique.
But first: what is moissanite?
Here is a story that sounds made up but is completely real. Moissanite was first discovered in 1893 by French chemist Henri Moissan inside a meteorite crater in the Arizona desert. He initially thought he'd found diamonds. He had not. He'd found silicon carbide. A mineral so rare in nature that virtually all moissanite used in jewelry today is lab-created.
It is, quite literally, a space mineral. And it makes the most beautiful Polki you've ever seen.
The science (briefly, we promise)
Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond. It actually produces more brilliance and fire, the rainbow light effect, than natural diamond. On the Mohs hardness scale, diamonds score a perfect 10. Moissanite scores 9.25. That is harder than every other jewelry stone except diamond itself. In traditional Polki, real diamonds are uncut and relatively vulnerable to surface scratching. Moissanite Polki is more scratch-resistant than the real thing.
A trained gemologist can tell the difference under magnification. Your wedding guests absolutely cannot.
Why Moissanite Polki makes sense
Traditional Polki bridal sets with real diamonds start at $1,000+ and increase significantly from there. Moissanite Polki gives you the same soft, cloudy, antique glow and the same raw romantic aesthetic. You also get the same Mughal-court-reference energy at a fraction of the price. The stones are more ethical, lab-created with zero mining required. They are also more durable than the real thing.
For diaspora brides who want the Polki aesthetic without a bridal budget, this is ideal.
At Inaury
This is what we do. Our Moissanite Polki pieces use real Kundan setting with genuine gold construction. That brings the full heirloom aesthetic into an accessible range. We use lab-created silicon carbide stones and traditional Jadau-inspired setting. The overall look is designed to feel royal, because that is exactly what it references.
You get the antique aesthetic, the cultural depth, and the heirloom feeling. You also get a price point that doesn't require a second conversation with your parents.
👉 Shop Moissanite Polki at Inaury
Kundan: Ancient Rajasthan, Mughal Courts, and Pure Gol
What is it?
Kundan, meaning pure gold, is a traditional Indian gemstone jewelry form. It involves a gem set with gold foil between the stones and its mount. Origins of Kundan jewelry in India date back to at least the 3rd century BCE. Kundan started in Rajasthan's royal courts and then flourished under royal patronage during the Mughal era.
The word kundan comes from the Sanskrit kundanam, meaning "highly refined" or "pure gold." This isn't decorative. It's descriptive. Authentic Kundan work uses 24K gold foil, nearly pure gold for jewelry making. It is beaten into ribbons so fine they cannot be touched by bare hands. Even oil from your fingertips can introduce impurities.
The technique
The process is extraordinarily labor-intensive. A framework of gold, called the ghaat, is first formed. Then lac resin is poured into the back to give structural strength. The artisan then seats each stone individually into the framework. They press 24K gold foil around the edges of each stone so it holds without prongs. There is no glue or solder involved. The stones can be precious, like rubies, emeralds, sapphires, or high-quality glass.
Over the years, the court Kundan jewelry was successfully copied in silver in Rajasthan, Bihar, and Punjab. It became popular with the common man. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for Kundan in India. It remains an integral part of the traditional bridal wedding trousseau.
A word on gold karats, and why Inaury's approach matters
Traditional Kundan, as made for Mughal emperors and Rajput royalty, used 24K (pure) gold. Fine jewelry houses in India still use 22K. In the modern jewelry market, especially for diaspora customers, you'll encounter everything from 24K down to gold-plated brass.
Here's the practical breakdown:
- 24K gold = pure gold. Used in traditional Kundan foil. Too soft for structural settings alone, which is why it's used as foil rather than framework. Maximum warmth and color.
- 22K gold = 91.7% gold. The traditional standard for Indian fine jewelry. Deep, rich yellow color. Still considered "real" gold in Indian markets.
- 18K gold = 75% gold. More durable than 22K. Popular for fine jewelry that needs to hold its shape and hold stones securely.
- 14K gold = 58.3% gold. The most popular karat in Western fine jewelry. Extremely durable. Great for everyday wear.
- 10K gold = 41.7% gold. The lowest karat that can legally be called "gold" in the US. Still real gold. Much more durable than higher karats, making it ideal for pieces worn frequently or for customers who want the look of gold at accessible price points.
This is what separates authentic heritage pieces from fashion jewelry, even when the designs look similar. The stones are set the traditional way. The craftsmanship is real.
The Meenakari reverse, because your jewelry has a secret garden on its back
Authentic Kundan pieces almost always feature Meenakari enamel work on the reverse. This is where the artistry goes quiet and private. It is visible only to the wearer when they take the piece off. Know that when you pick up a Kundan necklace and flip it over, finding a riot of color is intentional. The Mughal courts demanded beauty from every angle. Even angles no one else could see.
Kundan across borders: India and Pakistan
Kundan is not just an Indian tradition. It is deeply embedded in Pakistani jewelry culture too. These techniques were perfected under the patronage of the Mughal emperors and became symbols of their grandeur. Even today in Pakistan, Kundan jewelry remains highly sought after for bridal and special occasion wear.
Sindhi jewelry reflects bold, colorful patterns with intricate Kundan work and enamel embellishments. Pakistan's bridal Kundan, particularly from Lahore and Karachi, carries the same Mughal lineage as Indian Kundan. It is expressed through distinct regional aesthetics.
At Inaury
Our Kundan pieces use real Kundan setting on gold-plated construction. You're getting the traditional stone-setting technique with genuine craftsmanship, at a price point that works for the diaspora. For Pakistani and Indian brides and special occasion shoppers who want authentic craftsmanship without flying to Jaipur to buy it.
👉 Shop Inaury's Kundan Collection
Meenakari: Placing Paradise onto an Object
What is it?
The word Meenakari is made from two Persian words. mīnā means paradise or heaven, specifically the blue of the sky. kārī means to work or place something onto something else. Together, they suggest placing paradise onto an object.
Which is genuinely what it looks like.
Meenakari is the process of painting and colouring the surfaces of metals through enameling, originating in Safavid Iran. It is practiced as an art form and commercially produced mainly in Iran, India, Afghanistan, and Pakistan.
The history of Meenakari jewelry goes back to the Parthian and Sassanid empires of Persia. They ruled from 247 BCE to 651 CE. This art form predates Islam and the Mughal Empire. It predates basically everything we associate with "Indian jewelry." Yet it traveled here and became a defining feature of South Asian jewelry aesthetics.
How it arrived in India
The Mughal Empire is largely credited for Meenakari's arrival in India. During Akbar's 16th-century reign, Meenakari artisans were brought from Persia to Mughal courts in India. Then Raja Man Singh I of Amber, one of Akbar's most important generals, visited Lahore and recognized the art form. He brought skilled Meenakari craftsmen back to Rajasthan and settled them in Jaipur. This effectively established the city as the beating heart of Indian Meenakari. Jaipur still holds that title today.
The technique
At its heart, Meenakari is the art of enameling, fusing brilliant colours onto metal surfaces. The metal surface is intricately engraved with motifs, creating grooves that hold enamel. The enamel is made from crushed glass and applied into the depressions in the metal, colour by colour. Artisans start with the colour that can withstand the highest temperature. The piece is then placed into a high-temperature kiln. The enamel melts and fuses with the metal surface, giving a glossy, smooth, vibrant finish.
The result is permanent. True Meenakari enamel does not chip, fade, or wash off. When you inherit a Kundan set from your grandmother that still has perfect colors on the back, this is why. The enamel has been fused to the metal at a molecular level.
Regional styles, because it matters where it's from
Jaipur is the most famous center, known for bold Panchrangi, five-color, work. It uses ruby red, emerald green, sky blue, white, and golden yellow. Jaipur Meenakari typically uses gold as its base. This enhances the depth of color and makes the enamel glow.
Green-and-blue enamelling was popular among the Lucknow meenakars. Banaras artisans predominantly used a dusky pink or rose-gold shade with a lotus motif. This style was introduced in the 17th century by Persian craftsmen at the court of Lucknow's Avadh.
And then there is Multan, Pakistan. Multan has its own entirely distinct Meenakari tradition, predominantly blue-green enamel work. It has a cooler, deeper palette than Jaipur's bright fives. Multan's enameling tradition developed separately from Jaipur's, with more visible Central Asian influence. It carries a quieter, more geometric aesthetic. If you have seen deep teal enamel pieces from Pakistan and felt they differ from Indian Meenakari, this is why.
Delhi Meenakari carries Mughal-inspired designs with refined ornamentation, closer to the courtly original than regional adaptation.
The color palette itself carries meaning: red for passion, green for life, blue for divine energy. When an artisan chose which colors to use on the reverse of a Kundan piece, it was not arbitrary. It was intentional, symbolic, and site-specific.
At Inaury
Our Kundan pieces feature Meenakari detailing. When you flip the piece over, there's a whole world of color you weren't expecting. This is how traditional pieces are made. The back of your jewelry has a story. The Mughal courts demanded nothing less, and neither should you.
Thewa: The 300-Year Secret That One Family Still Keeps
What is it?
We're going to start with a confession: Thewa is probably the most underappreciated art form in South Asian jewelry. Most diaspora customers have never heard of it. Even people who grew up in India may not know the full story. And that's a shame, because the story is extraordinary.
Thewa is 23-karat gold fused directly onto colored glass. Creating a single Thewa jewelry piece is intensely labor-intensive. It can take a skilled artisan over a month.
Here's how it works. The artisan takes a piece of pure 23-karat gold and beats it into a paper-thin foil. The thickness must be exactly right. Too thick and it won't fuse. Too thin and it melts. Next, the artisan spreads a layer of natural lac on a wooden board and warms it. They press the gold foil onto this sticky surface. Using fine chisels, the artist sketches intricate scenes, often depicting Shikargah hunting scenes, Lord Krishna, or peacocks. They carefully cut away the negative space, leaving behind a delicate gold mesh.
Then comes the moment that makes Thewa completely unique. The artisan places the gold mesh onto a piece of colored Belgian glass, often red, green, or blue. They heat the entire assembly in a furnace. Through precise, secret temperature control, the gold fuses directly onto the glass surface. The glass cools and the gold becomes one with it, creating a mirror-like effect on the reverse side.
No adhesive. No glue. The bond between the gold and glass is purely physical and thermal.
The family that holds the secret
Thewa originated in 1707 in Pratapgarh, Rajasthan, developed by a goldsmith named Nathu ji Soni. His family, who call themselves Raj-Sonis, have passed the technique from father to son for over 300 years. The exact temperature at which gold fuses onto glass without destroying it? Still a family secret. It has never been publicly documented.
The Government of India's Geographical Indication, GI, tag certifies that authentic Thewa comes exclusively from Pratapgarh. Some of the finest examples sit in museum collections. These include the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert Museum.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The V&A in London. One family. One town. Three hundred years.
Why it matters for the diaspora
Thewa represents something almost no other jewelry form does. It is a single, traceable family lineage of craft that survived colonial rule, industrialization, and globalization. In a world of mass production and AI-generated design, Thewa is the opposite. It is stubbornly, irreducibly human.
For diaspora customers who want jewelry with genuine story depth, not just aesthetic depth, Thewa is worth seeking out. It looks unlike anything else in South Asian jewelry. It's immediately recognizable once you know what you're looking at.
AD Stones (American Diamond): Let's Clear This Up Forever
What is it?
AD, American Diamond, is an Indian market name for cubic zirconia, CZ. It is a lab-created crystalline form of zirconium dioxide that looks like a diamond.
Let's address the name first, because it confuses literally everyone. The US was the first country to produce cubic zirconia in large commercial quantities, starting in the late 1970s. That's it. That's why it's called American Diamond in India and Pakistan. It has nothing to do with American diamonds actually existing. It has nothing to do with diamonds chemically or mineralogically. It's a marketing name that stuck. Phenomenally well.
The actual history
CZ was first discovered as a naturally occurring mineral, in microscopic grains, by German mineralogists in 1937. It wasn't until 1977 that Soviet scientists developed a method to grow CZ crystals at scale. These were originally meant for lasers and optical equipment, not jewelry. When the jewelry industry realized these crystals could mimic diamonds at a fraction of the cost, the application shifted quickly.
Today, CZ is the most commercially produced diamond simulant in the world. It's available in virtually every color, cuts to a precise sparkle, and costs a tiny fraction of a natural diamond.
AD vs Zircon: they are not the same thing
This comes up constantly and it matters:
AD / American Diamond = Cubic Zirconia (CZ). Lab-created zirconium dioxide. Not a mineral found in nature in usable form. Scores 8.5–9 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Zircon = a natural, mined mineral, one of the oldest minerals on earth. Some zircon crystals date back 4.4 billion years. Natural zircon has a higher refractive index than CZ, giving it more natural brilliance and a deeper sparkle. It is not a diamond simulant. It is a gemstone in its own right, with its own value.
They both look diamond-like. They are completely different materials.
What AD is genuinely great for
Here's the honest take: AD jewelry is built for fashion, not forever.
It is the workhorse of South Asian jewelry and delivers maximum sparkle at accessible prices. It's perfect for the function where you want to glow without spending your savings. Every culture has its version of the "wear it everywhere, look amazing, don't overthink it" jewelry. For us, it's AD.
The caveat: AD stones are softer than diamonds, moissanite, or genuine zircon. With heavy daily wear, they can develop micro-scratches and haziness over time. Store them separately, keep them away from perfume and moisture, and they'll serve you beautifully.
At Inaury
Our Diamante collection features AD stones for those who want maximum sparkle at a sensible price. It works for everyday and event wear.
👉 Shop the Diamante Collection at Inaury
Pakistani Jewelry Traditions: Because This Heritage Belongs to All of Us
South Asian jewelry is not monolithic. The same Mughal lineage that shaped Jaipur's Kundan tradition also shaped Lahore's. The same Persian influence that gave India Meenakari gave Pakistan Multan's distinct enamel tradition. And Pakistan has developed jewelry forms entirely its own.
Here's a quick map of Pakistan's regional jewelry landscape, because if you're desi, this is yours too:
- Sindhi jewelry is bold, colorful, and maximalist. Known for heavy gold haars with intricate Kundan work and enamel embellishments. If the piece looks like it's competing with the bride herself in terms of presence, it might be Sindhi.
- Punjabi jewelry (Pakistani side) centers on gold: heavy gold bangles (kara), elaborate naths (nose rings), passas (side forehead ornaments). Gold is not decorative here; it is identity, security, and celebration fused into wearable form.
- Pashtun jewelry is predominantly silver with bold geometric designs and turquoise stones, carrying strong Central Asian influence. Heavy tribal-inspired pieces that communicate strength and lineage.
- Balochi jewelry features dramatic weight and traditional motifs, with design language that reads as distinct from both Punjabi and Sindhi aesthetics, a reminder that Pakistan's jewelry traditions span a geography as large and diverse as a continent.
- Multan Meenakari, Pakistan's own distinct enamel tradition with a blue-green palette rooted in its own regional history and separate from Jaipur's five-color tradition.
For the Pakistani diaspora, this is 2,500+ years of jewelry history. The Mughal court jewelry you admire in museums, the Kundan necklaces, the Polki sets, and the enamel backs were made in cities that are now Pakistan. Lahore and Multan were key centers. The territory was shared. The heritage is shared. The jewelry is yours.
The Final Word: Which One Is Actually for You?
If you want to invest in something real with actual diamond content and actual resale value, real Polki is the one. Understand what you're buying and verify with certifications. Treat it as an heirloom from day one. We do not sell it at Inaury. It's not our price point. It shouldn't be yours unless you're ready for that conversation.
If you want the Polki look with Mughal-court energy but without the real-diamond price tag, choose Moissanite Polki. It is lab-created, ethical, more durable than real Polki, and virtually identical in appearance. This is what we do at Inaury and we stand behind it completely.
If you want heritage craftsmanship with the visual richness of gemstone-like stones, Kundan is your answer. At Inaury, this means real Kundan setting on gold-plated construction, the traditional technique at an accessible price point.
If you want maximum sparkle for events, functions, and the gram, AD / Diamante is made for exactly that. No shame, no caveats, just sparkle.
If you want something genuinely rare with a story no one else at the table has heard, seek out Thewa. It is gold fused directly onto glass by a family working this craft for three centuries. The Met has it. The V&A has it. Now you know what it is.
At Inaury, we make jewelry for the desi diaspora, people who grew up between cultures. They want to honor their heritage without explaining it to a jeweler who's never heard of Kundan. They deserve pieces that carry the full weight of history without the full weight of a Jaipur price tag.
This is your heritage. Wear it accordingly.
👉 Explore the Full Inaury Collection
Questions about materials, care, or what to choose for your next function? Reach out to us. We genuinely love talking about this stuff.
