Jewels of Time: Understanding the Stones Behind South Asian Jewelry

South Asian jewelry is a tapestry woven with history, culture, and artistry. Each piece tells a story — not just through its design, but through the very stones that adorn it. Understanding these stones — their origins, craftsmanship, and value — offers a deeper appreciation for the jewelry and the artisans behind them.

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Polki: The Raw Royalty of Mughal India

Polki jewelry features uncut, natural diamonds, preserving their raw and organic form. This style dates back to the Mughal era (16th century) and became a signature of royal courts in Rajasthan and Gujarat. The unrefined nature of Polki diamonds gives them a soft, earthy sparkle that cannot be replicated by fully cut gemstones.

Crafting Polki jewelry is highly labor-intensive, requiring skilled artisans to set each stone by hand without the use of modern cutting tools. Because true Polki uses natural diamonds and traditional techniques, these pieces are often more expensive — carrying not just material value, but immense historical and cultural significance.

Modern Variations of Polki

Today, the look of Polki jewelry is so beloved that there are different types of Polki stones beyond natural diamonds, offering a range of price points and styles:

Type	Description	Notes
Diamond Polki	Uncut natural diamonds, traditionally set.	Highest value, classic luxury.
Moissanite Polki	Lab-created moissanite stones, cut to mimic Polki.	Offers high brilliance and durability at a more accessible price.
Glass Polki (Syndicate Polki)	Glass pieces shaped and polished to resemble uncut diamonds.	More affordable, used in fashion and bridal sets.
Quartz Polki	Clear quartz cut in polki style.	Organic look but less brilliance than diamonds.
Resin-based Polki	Resin molded to imitate polki stones.	Very lightweight and budget-friendly.

At Inaury, we proudly offer both authentic Moissanite Polki depending on the piece. Moissanite Polki offers a brilliant, ethical alternative — crafted in the same traditional style for a luminous effect that's nearly indistinguishable to the eye.

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Kundan: The Art of Refined Gold

Kundan jewelry is synonymous with elaborate gold artistry and gemstone setting. It dates back over 2,500 years, reaching a peak during the Mughal empire. Unlike Polki, Kundan focuses on the setting itself — using pure, highly refined gold foil to enclose and support polished stones, creating rich, intricate patterns.

Because of the sheer labor involved and the use of pure gold, authentic Kundan jewelry is both heavier and more valuable. It's a style reserved for heirlooms and special occasions, deeply tied to Indian, Pakistani, and Hyderabadi bridal traditions.

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American Diamonds (AD) and Cubic Zirconia (CZ): Affordable Brilliance

When it comes to adding dazzling sparkle without the steep cost of natural diamonds, American Diamonds (AD) and Cubic Zirconia (CZ) have become beloved materials in South Asian jewelry. But not all AD jewelry is created equal — and the difference lies in the craftsmanship, design, and materials used alongside the stones.

What Are American Diamonds (AD)?

• "American Diamond" (AD) is a common trade name for high-quality Cubic Zirconia stones in India, Pakistan, and the South Asian diaspora markets.They are synthetically created to closely mimic the look of real diamonds.
• AD stones are synthetically created to replicate the brilliance of real diamonds — offering a clear, bright sparkle prized for bridal and statement jewelry.
• Because they are lab-created, they can be made with exceptional clarity and minimal inclusions, often appearing flawless to the naked eye.
  
  

Our AD jewelry is:

• Handpicked by our trusted artisans and suppliers for superior cut and clarity, ensuring each stone maximizes brilliance.
• Meticulously hand-set to enhance durability and maintain high-shine
• Paired with thicker, high-quality plating in rhodium or gold to deliver a luxurious, lasting finish.

By combining exceptional craftsmanship with carefully selected materials, our AD jewelry offers the beauty and sparkle you love — without compromising on quality.

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Reverse AD: Modern Shine with Traditional Inspiration

Reverse AD is a style of jewelry that features American Diamond (AD) or Cubic Zirconia (CZ) stones set upside down, with the pointed side facing outward rather than inward.

This creates a unique, sharp sparkle that catches light differently from traditional stone settings — offering a bold, geometric brilliance perfect for both bridal and festive wear. Reverse AD designs are typically mounted in silver-toned (rhodium-plated) bases to enhance their cool-toned shimmer, though gold variations also exist.

Clarifying a Common Misconception: Reverse AD is Not Polki

It’s important to note that some jewelers — whether unintentionally or for marketing purposes — may label Reverse AD jewelry as "Polki" jewelry. However, true Polki refers strictly to uncut, natural diamond stones, not lab-created AD or CZ stones.

While Reverse AD is beautifully crafted and highly sought after for its sparkle, it does not carry the same rarity, material value, or historical legacy as authentic Polki.

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Jewelry Stones: Cost vs. Quality Explained (Infographic)

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Zircon: The Ancient Gemstone

Often confused with cubic zirconia, natural zircon is a genuine gemstone known for its fiery brilliance. The word "zircon" stems from the Persian word zargun, meaning "gold-colored," and it has been prized in South Asia and Persia since medieval times. 

Good quality zircon stones have a radiance almost comparable to diamonds, but they are far more affordable and softer, requiring careful handling in jewelry.

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Resin Beads: Modern Creativity Meets Tradition

Resin beads — whether natural (like amber) or synthetic — have been part of jewelry traditions worldwide. In South Asian jewelry, synthetic resin beads became popular in the mid-20th century for creating colorful, lightweight, and more affordable pieces.

While they don't carry the historical prestige of diamonds or kundan, resin beads allow for playful, artistic freedom, especially in casual or festive jewelry collections.

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Why Some Stones (and Pieces) Are More Expensive

Understanding what goes into each jewelry piece can explain the wide range of prices:

• Material Quality: Natural diamonds, high-grade moissanite, pure gold, and real gemstones increase the intrinsic value.
• Craftsmanship: Hand-setting natural stones (like Polki or Kundan) demands years of artisan training, adding labor cost and uniqueness.
• Historical Legacy: Styles like Diamond Polki and Kundan are rooted in centuries of tradition and were once exclusive to royalty.
• Rarity and Durability: Real diamonds, zircons, and fine moissanite retain brilliance over decades — unlike resin, glass, or synthetic alternatives.
  
  

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Conclusion

South Asian jewelry is a bridge between art, history, and self-expression. From the regal glow of Diamond Polki to the brilliant affordability of Moissanite Polki and Reverse AD, each material tells a different story — of tradition, creativity, and craftsmanship. 

By understanding the stones and techniques behind the beauty, we celebrate not just jewelry, but the timeless cultural artistry it represents.